These are instructions on how to enable SMTP Authentication on common email programs. SMTP Authentication must be enabled on your email program / application in order to send outgoing email. This is a requirement on most mail servers.
SMTP Authentication simply means your email program is providing your full email address and password when you send outgoing emails to prove who you are. Most webmail programs have SMTP Authentication enabled by default, but many desktop email programs (like Outlook, Thunderbird, Apple Mail etc.) will disable it by default. It’s important to check if SMTP Authentication is required for every email account used or you could encounter error messages or bounce-backs with your outgoing emails. It only takes a minute to check if it’s enabled.
Please note that if you do not have SMTP Authentication enabled, this will decrease the “reputation” of your email address, and other email providers like Yahoo, Hotmail and Google Mail will be more likely to mistake your incoming emails for spam.
Please follow the relevant instructions below to verify SMTP Authentication is enabled.
We recently re-installed Windows 7 Professional on one of our clients laptops, a MSI cr630 ( AMD Processor ) and seen an odd issue with the wireless card. Windows 7 was reporting that no wireless networks were available.
The wireless card was installed correctly with no issues in Device Manager. The wireless card could also be viewed in the “Networking and Sharing Center”, under “Change adapter settings” and was reporting no issues or errors.
Pressing FN + F10 ( the wireless key ) made no difference in Windows or to the Wireless LED button on the front of the laptop.
We rebooted the laptop and checked the BIOS – just to make sure that wireless / bluetooth radio was not turned off – the BIOS did not have this option.
So we booted back into Windows to see if we could enable the wireless through the Windows Mobility Center. The Wireless option was greyed out – how bizarre!
Our next line of call was to check the settings through the device manager. The “Radio Power” option was set to “ON” already – so we set it to “OFF”, back to “ON” and clicked OK. Voila! WiFi back working again 🙂
We rebooted / powered the laptop off several times just to make sure the settings stuck and there have been no issues since.